Nitzana to Mizpe Ramon - 10/22/10 - 61 Miles

One of the amazing things about this ride is that each day truly has its own personality.  I have a good memory, but beyond that, each day is so unique, with its own memorable experiences, that I am sure I will be able to recite each day even 10 years from now.  Before the trip, today was the day I dreaded.  I figured I could do 100-miles.  What I wasn't sure of is whether or not I could get back on my bike the next day and do 61-miles more.  To compound the worry, it was 61-miles of VERY hilly riding, and very technically challenging.  Today's hills proved to be as difficult as anything I encountered on the Oregon/CA coast when I road the west coast in college.  In the end, I got through it with energy to spare.  

We rode along the Egyptian border for 80% of the ride.  The day started at an Egyptian/Israeli border crossing, and we rode along a fence (literally and figuratively) for the majority of the day.  I encountered an amazing juxtaposition at the border crossing: an Egyptian soldier rode along his side of the fence on a camel, our Israeli military escort zoomed up in an armored humvee with 4 VERY serious looking soldiers.  Throughout the ride we passed military installations and observation towers. In all cases, Israel's facilities looked modern and military, the Egyptian, run down and un-military.  It was a microcosm reflection of the states of the two countries, and gave me hope that Egypt has enough internal worries to focus on, that it doesn't have the inclination or resources to cause trouble with Israel.  We can only hope.

There were two major climbs on the ride.  The first was relatively short, and VERY steep.  The other was 4-5 miles long and just kept gooooooinnnnnnnnnng.  At the top of this second climb we had lunch outside a military base at the highest point in the Negev. Today was my most memorable day for a number of reasons:

1.  I saw Darfur refugees.
2.  I spoke with Egyptian border guards from afar
3.  I experienced a great adventure with my father-in-law

After breakfast (the top of the first mountain), we came to a small military outpost.  Outside the gate were a number of black, African men sitting in a circle, eating fruit, and looking very much dazed and out of place.  We were told by the guards that they were Darfur refugees who had walked through the Sinai to get to Israel.  It is common knowledge in Darfur and Eritria, that if you can get to Israel, you can get political asylum.  It is also understood that if you are caught in Eqypt, you are beaten and thrown in jail.  To me, it was just another example of Israel's willingness to accept anyone into their country who is willing to become a contributing member of society.

Note:  Breakfast at top of first climb with my father-in-law (Kurt)

 Note:  Darfur refugees outside of Israeli observation post.

A little while later I came to a switchback in the road where I was only a few hundred yards from an Egyptian compound.  There were a number of soldiers at the fence watching this surrealistic scene of bikers riding in the desert along the border.  I stopped my bike to take a picture, and one of them yelled to me:  "what's your name?".  I struck up a brief conversation, and was then on my way.  This encounter was just further confirmation that they, as individuals, don't hate me, and I don't hate them; that there should be some way for us all to get along.

Note:  Egyptian border guards saying hello in various ways!

Finally, the ride was memorable because I got to do it with Kurt.  We were warned that today's ride was the toughest.  Many strong riders begged out of this route for the alternate due to the mountain climbs, but not Kurt.  He has always wanted to see Bake Sedek (sic?), the site of the first climb and where Moses and the Jews may have entered into Israel after 40-years in the Sinai.  It was amazing to see Kurt do this ride, and to see his pride in accomplishing it.  In addition, I got two flat front tires on this day.  There is something somewhat surreal and neat about changing a flat tire on a small mountain road in the desert in view of the Egyptian border.  It's certainly not a feeling I experience when riding through MetroWest!  

The day ended in Mizpe Ramon for the beginning of Shabbat (Friday night).  Mizpe Ramon is on the rim of the Mahktesh Ramon, Israel's version of the Grand Canyon.  More on this amazing geological entity in my next blog.

Ashkelon to Nitzana - 10/21/2010 - 100 Miles!

On a trip like this, today is what a I call a mileage ride .  We had to get from Ashelon to Nitzana, so off we went.  There wasn't much ultra-special to see along the way, but again, just realizing that I am riding through Israel is special onto itself.  The ride was planned to be 93-miles, but I knew if I made it, and had any energy left, I would go an extra 7 miles to hit 100.  In riding, a 100-mile ride is called a "century", and it is a right of passage.

The ride was quite easy geographically and logistically.  We went 60-miles south on one road, and then took a right onto another road for 33 miles, to the Egyptian border.  The ride throughout was mostly gentle rolling hills.  This was definitely the terrain to do 100-miles.  After leaving Askelon, we stopped for breakfast at a reservoir.  The reservoir was special for two reasons.  One, it is one of 240 reservoirs in Israel that are essential to the country's survival.  Two, because we overlooked the Gaza strip.  Even from afar, you could sense how crowded the Gaza strip is.  I was proud to learn that Israel on a number of occasions has offered the Palestinians in the Gaza access to Israel's water supply.  The Palestinians have refused because they fear the water supply would then be used as a weapon against them in a time of conflict.  Hey, you can't help but try.

Note:  Edge of reservoir with Gaza in the background.

After leaving the reservoir we headed into the Negev desert.  I thought this area was desolate, but it was nothing compared to what I would see the next day.  Much of the ride was spent traversing a military firing range.  We even rode through a large military complex which I assumed housed some of Israel's armored divisions.  The tanks at the gate entrance were my clue.  The ride continued uneventfully until we arrived at Nitzana.  At that point, I corraled 5 of my new riding buddies to go on with me to do the final 7 miles.  We rode right up to the Egyptian border and rode along the fence until we hit a "do not enter" sign.  We turned around and hit our 100-miles.  What a feeling.  Not only was it the longest bike ride I'd ever taken, it turns out it was also my fastest average mph.  I was quite proud of myself.

Note:  Firing range sign and my trusty steed (big red bike)

Nitzana is a kibbutz that focuses on educating Israel's school children about nature.  We had a fun communal dinner with what seemed like hundreds of teenage kids.  After dinner, and a presentation about Nitzana, it was again off to bed at 8:30.  The room was a classic kibbutz room - no frills - but I wasn't complaining.  All I needed was a hot shower, firm mattress and pillow.

Note:  Century club at Egyptian border. 

Jerusalem to Askelon - 10/20/10 - 57 Miles

Fantastic, yet brutal, is the only way to describe the first day.  "Fantastic" because I love being on my bike, and seeing new countryside with every pedal stroke.  Couple that with the fact that I was riding in Israel, and how could it be anything but fantastic.  "Brutal" because we rode in 105 degree heat and 30+ mph headwinds.  To add more insult, the swirling winds kicked up alot of dust.  The Israelis call this weather a "sharav", and it is very rare.  Gee, lucky me.  The only way I survived the day was by drinking water and energy drink.  Without exaggeration, I drank more today, than in any other day in my life.  Luckily, I was aware of the threat of dehydration on a ride through Israel, so I began drinking right at the beginning of the day, and kept on going.  Others were not so fortunate and succumbed to dehydration.  On an organized ride like this, there is a bus called the SAG that "sweeps" the rear of the riders picking up people who are tired and can go no further.  Needless to say, the bus was full this day! 

The ride officially started with brief prayers and the blowing of the shofar.  The bicycle cavalcade than set out from the hotel lead by a police escort.  At 6AM, we almost had the streets of Jerusalem to ourselves.  It was so peaceful riding through a big city with no traffic and few people.  The people who we did see, looked at us like aliens.  It's not every day Jerusalemites (?) see 117 bicyclists streaming through their city at 6AM.  

 

Our ride took us from Jerusalem, in the Judean Hills, to Askelon, an ancient port city on the Mediterranean.  Once we left the foothills, we primarily rode through rolling countryside that has been turned into farmland.  As you ride through Israel, you must constantly remind yourself that this land was once almost entirely desert; that every tree and fertile acre wasn't just nature's gift, it took alot of hard work, typically manual labor.  We have professors from the Arava Institute on the ride with us, and at many rest areas one of them will speak about a social or ecological issue germane to that area.  The discussion that struck me on this day was the fact that in 1948, Israel had almost no trees, and yet as I stood in the Judean hills all I could see was trees.  Mark Twain, on a visit to Palestine in the 1880s, called Jerusalem one of the most desolate places he had ever seen.  In 1948, Ben Gurion, the first president of Israel, vowed to plant 1 billion trees; everyone thought he was crazy. So far, Israel has planted 240 million!  See for yourself the fruits of this labor.

 
After the surviving the morning sharav, and re-energizing at lunch, I rode into Ashkelon.  The sun was just setting, but that did not stop Kurt and me from jumping into the Mediterranean.  Ohhhh, the water felt soooooo good.  The water was a warm as the warmest day on Cape Cod.  After dinner, and a debrief of the next day's ride, it was off to bed.  I needed my energy if I were to accomplish a "century" the next day (100-miles).

One last thing, I love the multi-national feel of Israel.  Although 80% of the people are Jewish, there is still a broad mix of nationalities and backgrounds.  For instance, one of our bike mechanics, Gio, is from Vietnam, and married an Israeli women.  While riding through a moshav (farm), I was struck by this sight.  Renata, this one's for you!

Jerusalem (10/18 - 10/19)

The sightseeing is complete, and the preparations are done, now it's time to get riding. We set out at 6:00AM Wednesday morning. Our first ride will be 65-miles from Jerusalem, through the Judean Hills, to the port of Ashkelon. More on that ride tomorrow.

My comfortable, uneventful flight landed at Ben Gurion Airport at 3:30PM on Sunday (10/17). After a picturesque ride through the Judean Hills in a sharout (a cross between a taxi and a mini-bus), I arrived in Jerusalem in the early evening. After a quick shwarma pita, it was off to bed.

Note:  View of Old City from the West, and Jaffa Gate (main entrance to the Old City)

Monday (10/18) was the quintessential sightseeing day in Jerusalem. I was in the Old City for most of the day. I walked through the Arab shuk; visited the Israeli quarter; spent time at the Western Wall; and even saw the Armenian section. Jerusalem is like no other place on earth, with the amalgam of nationalities and religions all calling the city their home and birthplace. My tour was extra-special because it was lead by Dina, Kurt's (my father-in-law) cousin. Dina made Aliyah (moved) to Israel in 1966. Dina just happens to be a tour guide for German tourists who visit Jerusalem, so you can imagine how interesting the tour was. Dina, like Kurt, escaped Germany before it was too late, and rode out the war as well in Shanghai, China. Like Kurt, she then settled in Salt Lake City, Utah.  It's captivating hearing Dina and Kurt talk about Germany and Shanghai. I know that somewhere in their stories is a book.

Note:  The Western Wall

 

We wrapped up the day with a lightshow at King David's Tower in the Old City. It was like no other lightshow I had ever seen, with entire walls of the old city bathed in light and sound, depicting various eras in Jerusalem's history. In my short time here, I already have two unescapable observations. ONE, Israel is much less militarized than it was when I was last here in 1983. Then, serious soldiers with guns were the norm. Now it is soldiers laughing and smiling, enjoying the camaraderie of their peers. Boy, the soldiers sure look young! I don't deceive myself, I know the security and overall might of Israel's military has not wavered, but now it is behind the scenes, ready to act if necessary. Let us pray it remains unnecessary. TWO, the passion and pride Israeli's have for their country, and their Jewish faith, is palpable. I saw students, soldiers and everyday citizens break into spontaneous song and dance on a number of occasions yesterday. It was especially moving seeing a class of teenage girls singing by the Crusader's Gate with so much passion that some of the girls were actually crying.

Note:  Schoolgirls singing.

 

Today, has been a day of rest and preparation. My bike went back together without incident, and I went for a brief ride around the city to make sure everything was working right - including my legs! Given the traffic, and aggressive drivers, riding a bike in Jerusalem is not for the faint of heart, so we kept the ride short. Later we all get together for a logistics meeting and dinner. Then it is off to bed early. That 5AM alarm will come too soon.

Note:  Kurt and Stephen on their tuneup ride in Jerusalem

Departure Day (10/16/10)

Hi everyone.  The adventure begins.  I am currently sitting in Newark Int'l Airport on a 4-hour layover, waiting for my 10:30 flight to Tel Aviv.  I will arrive in TA at 3:30 (their time) on Sunday.

My weeks of preparation paid off.  I far exceeded my fundraising goal, thank you.  I am in cycling shape, and the actual packing went easier than expected.  Of course, I had some help along the way.

Today was rather hectic between last minute items, Jared's soccer game, and generally wanting to spend time with the family, but I pulled it off.  In the end, I got a rousing send off from my family. I miss them already!

 
Well, it's time to grab some dinner, and make some phone calls. I'll try to blog each day, time and technology permitting.  I hope you'll follow along and enjoy.